1)
When can I apply it?
Our products cure primarily through evaporation. The ideal conditions
would be warm bright sunny days, about seventy degrees is best.
In marginal conditions, it is best to use Elasto-Barrier. It is
colored and draws heat from the sun and will cure much faster, even
at temperatures as low as forty degrees.
2)
How does it stop leaks?
If you apply coating by pouring it out and pushing the puddle, when
it comes to a crack, hole, or seam, it will flow into it and when
it cures becomes a non-penetrable seal. Of course, larger openings
require additional coats but not to the extent of most of our competitors
products which tend to be much thinner and runnier. Ames products
are purposely made thicker to reduce the amount of labor required
to reach your goal.
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3)
My customer wants an almond colored Coating
Many applications, especially RV’s, involve light colors and
the customer’s goal is to not have a stark white on the roof.
This is easily accomplished in your paint department. Simply have
the customer pick out an exterior (more colorfast than interior)
color chip that calls for a white or pastel tint base and use this
exact formula to tint either Snow Seal® or Iron Coat. The color will
be very close. As Elasto-Barrier is colored, do not attempt to tint
it.
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4)
How much will I need?
Coverage, particularly on the first coat is determined by how rough
or smooth the existing surface is. Most applications on a smooth
surface will be about one-gallon for every 100 square feet (a 10
foot by 10 foot square equals 100 square feet). This is true for
metal, smooth tar (asphalt), rubber membranes, and other smooth
surfaces. A granulated surface, such as rolled roofing (approximately
three feet wide is standard, but half-lap exists and is about eighteen
inches wide) will use about one-gallon for every 50 square feet
(5 foot by 10 foot). Subsequent coats will use a standard one-gallon
per 100 square feet.
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5)
How is it applied?
Easily with a brush (small areas or edges), a paint roller (larger
areas), and for commercial applications, it may be sprayed with
a commercial coatings sprayer (not a paint sprayer). We have received
several reports of individuals applying with their bare hands but
this is not recommended. Though for most individuals it is not toxic
and causes no adverse reaction, it’s really hard to clean
your hands after an hour or so.
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6)
How long does it last?
Service life is predicated on exposure and the thickness of the
coating. On the equator it is not likely to last as long as it would
in Minneapolis, MN due to the difference in UV exposure and the
average daily temperature.
Additionally, the thicker the coating, the tougher
it will be and the longer it will last. As a rough rule of thumb,
one to two years for one coat, and then add two to three years for
each additional coat. It would not be at all unusual to expect between
five and ten years from a three-coat application.
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7)
Which product(s) are better for me?
First, establish the customer’s goal (s). If reflectivity
and cooler roof temperatures are the goal, then use Maximum-Stretch,
Snow Seal or Iron Coat (for metal roofs). If the customer
has serious leaks he or she is recommended to pre-seal with
the Elasto-Barrier, using seam tape or fabric as necessary,
and then use Maximum-Stretch, Snow Seal® or Iron Coat. Sealing
leaks is important. If in doubt about a specific application,
please call us first, 1-888-345-0809. The product label
is a good source for this type of information.
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8)
What types of roofs can be coated?
With few exceptions, all roofs. But, some work better than others.
Coating is very efficient for metal roofs (campers, RVs, mobile
homes, travel trailers, barns, pole buildings, corrugated, double
vee, and on both galvanized and aluminum. You can even coat over
rusty metal and stop the rust if you use Elasto-Barrier first. Coating
is very good on Bur’s (built up roofs), rolled roofing, half-lap,
and granulated sheet goods. Poor applications (not recommended)
would be for surfaces that do not offer a good bond, such as brand
new (un-weathered) metal, Silicone roofing, silicone caulk, waxy
surfaces (used as a release agent for some sheet goods), and un-weathered
EPDM (a special type of sheet goods that uses silicone as a release
agent during its manufacturing process).
For those of you who are completely baffled at this
point, do a simple test. Paint generously a small area (say four
or five inches square) with common latex house paint. Allow to dry.
Attempt to remove the test spot with your fingernails. If you can
dig it up one fingernail full at a time, the roof is a good candidate
for coating. If the test spot comes up in a sheet, adhesion is lacking
and you may run a risk coating it.
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9)
What is the most common “oops” to occur in an application?
Using the correct amount of product to do the job. Not only not
enough, but also using too much occurs. Do your very best to apply
at the one gallon per 100 square feet. Too little, you may not meet
the customer’s goal and service life will not be what it should
be. Too much coating per coat means excessive cure times. This becomes
especially risky in cooler temperatures and late in the season.
We are a simple water clean-up family of products. Rain, fog, and
dew are water. Once cured, our products will not re-emulsify (dissolve
in water).
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10)
What do I do about standing water?
To the best of my knowledge, all current roofs are built
with a pitch so the weight of standing water is eliminated,
however, time tends to change things and low spots tend
to occur. Standard coatings work well on pitched roofs but
may take issue with prolonged standing water exposure. In
these areas we recommend using Elasto-Barrier in conjunction
with seam tape or fabric. Top coating with Maximum-Stretch,
Snow Seal® or Iron Coat is recommended. The Elasto-Barrier
is special; it is a non-breathable liquid rubber coating
that can withstand ponding water. This means you could use
Elasto-Barrier to seal a cardboard box and then store water
in it!
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